Back to Basics: An Elementary 5W Rendition of Montreal Fashion Week
| Semaine de Mode Montréal 18 |
We all know by now that Denis Gagnon exceeded everyone’s high expectations, and that the fall 2010 trends might feel a bit grim with an abundance of leggings and a dominance of black, gray, and camel tones.
Yet, chances are you skimmed through these blogs one after the other without really getting a feel of what you’ll be wearing in (only) a few months. So here’s a new take on it: the fall style in 5W+ genre. Or if you prefer, fashion you get to experience with your eyes closed.
Who: PHILIP SPARKS
What: Men’s prêt-à-porter - a beautifully tailored line of rich wool melton trench coats, creamy t-shirts, soft plaid shirts paired with sleek cashmere trousers and dark jeans with discrete gold brushed trimmings, piped pockets, and a tinge of raw edges.
Where: on a yacht in the Mediterranean sea
When: any peaceful laconic misty morning
Why: for a modern and very comforting look
Reminiscent of: Hugo Pratt’s Corto Maltese
Iconic song: Le baiser - Indochine
More Sparks images here and here.
~
Who: COCCOLILY
What: Ivory white satins, lots of frills, and textured fuchsia/black lamé. Jabots, pleats, and ruffles layered on sequence lace. A profusion of artifacts and sleeves: the puff, the gigot, the 3/4, the sleeveless…
Where: any 80’s themed party
When: when you feel incredibly bold and assertive
Why: because you need a reason to mix sexy hot pants and black lace
Reminiscent of: Madame de Pompadour
Iconic song: Madonna’s Like a Virgin
~
Who: BODYBAG by Jude
What: French Geisha meets La sophistiqué with high-waisted trousers, silk blouses, cutout backs, and a mixture of pearly blue, soft creamy lace, cold grey and old raspberry jerseys.
Where: Suite 701 after the show…or any downtown hotspot of the Montreal business crowd
When: when all you need is a little “suivez-moi” to have them wrapped around your finger
Why: to seduce with class
Reminiscent of: a foxy secretary straight out of the 1960’s
Iconic song: Carla Bruni’s L’excessive
More Bodybag by Jude here and here.
~
Who: EVE GRAVEL
What: a hot collection of flowy chiffon print dresses, slim belts, skirts, tie dye jerseys in washed lavender, and lace and accordion pleats.
Where: anywhere in this modern world
When: when you feel the urge to dare to be your own woman
Why: because you feel like it
Reminiscent of: Faye Dunaway in Bonnie and Clyde
Iconic song: Death by Diamonds and Pearls, Bands of Skull’s
More Eve Gravel here and here.
~
Who: MICALLA
What: From opulent Swarovski crystal neck pieces and hyper long metallic Sautoirs in a myriad of different metals to skin-kissing chain mails and semi-precious stone creations
Where: on a red carpet… even if it’s in your own living room (you deserve it; go ahead, unroll one!)
When: when vanity calls or upon landing in Paris
Why: because you’re worth it
Reminiscent of: Rita Hayworth
Iconic song: Marilyn’s I Wanna Be Loved by You
More Micalla here
~
Who: KATRIN LEBLOND
What: a collection whose masterpiece is a vibrant velvet winter coat in slush puppy blue, fruit punch and grape.
When: when you understand the concept of Spanish gypsy dancers, cabaret burlesque, butterfly colouring book, and Mademoiselle C morphed into one.
Where: Strawberry Shortcake’s Berry Bitty City
Why: a dose of joy to combat the winter blues
Reminiscent of: A Tiki party on a candy high
Iconic song: Gérard Calvi's L’île du Plaisir & Samba
More Katrin Leblond here and here.
~
Who: Barilà
What: slender punk silhouettes in cozy quilted French terry trousers and raglan sleeve queue de pies paired up with tank tops in shades of light grey, warm taupe, and vanilla, rolled-up wool shorts, and Saharian shirts.
When: at former Love Hate on Notre Dame or former La Brique on Ste. Catherine
Why: because you deserve as much attention as Miss Canada on a runway
Where: a paparazzi hot spot
Reminiscent of: an era of true glam, glitz, and a dash of grunge… if that ever existed other than in my own head.
Iconic song: Pet Shop boys’ West-End Girls
~
Who: DENIS GAGNON
What: Plique-à-jour lacing shirts and dresses made of undulating swaths of silky fringes in warm browns, black leather, and teal savantly stitched together. Gagnon’s zipper infatuation sculpts every piece of this line in the most thrilling and unconventional way.
When: going to dinner with your beau
Why: to lay back and relax, in style
Where: in an obscure Riviera hot spot
Reminiscent of: an Emmanuelle movie
Iconic song: Grace Jones’ I’ve seen that face before
More Gagnon here.
~
Who: Manu Militari by Ralph Leroy
What: a prime quality menswear collection with flawless tailoring and a unique, elegant style. Soft green plaid trousers, tapered shirts, and gabardine trousers, paired with bright orange and red leather jackets, and deep grey riding coats, and fox-like fur and gun-metal finish buttons to frame the masterpieces.
When: toasting the night away
Why: to assert your manhood and protect the earth
Where: anywhere hot
Reminiscent of: Diego Rivera
Iconic song: torn between Finley Quaye’s Sunday Shining and a tribute to Diego Rivera
More Ralph Leroy here and here
~ Co-authored by Melanie C. and Katina K.
Photographs by Abir Shah and Jimmy Hamelin
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